A pisteur in the Pyrénées

Always champing at the bit to live life to the full, though at times at odds with my own energy levels, travel for me was like a life support machine, a drug. I needed it to survive and feel complete, forever planning the next exploration of an unknown destination: Europe, North America, Central America, Africa, Australasia, south-east Asia, to finally find myself back not far from my roots in Britain.

I quickly learnt that travelling abroad couldn’t be more of a different experience from living abroad! Settling in a new country and trying to integrate requires an incredible amount of patience and perseverance.

However, as any expat might appreciate, though putting roots down in foreign soil can at times be testing, the rewards are numerous in the long run. My French partner and I moved from Tours in the Loire Valley to the Vallée d’Ossau in the Pyrénées, not far from the city of Pau, for a multitude of reasons.

Primarily, the move was spurred on by a desire for a certain lifestyle and for me to finally rest my backpack. My partner is passionate about the ocean and I have had a longterm affection for the mountains. Finding both in near distance of each other doesn’t occur in many places in France.

Location sourced and found, I was able to carry on my career in real estate using my foreign language skills. At the same time, proximity to the mountains enabled me to finally complete the specialised training in my parallel profession: secours or emergency rescue. In April 2007, I achieved my goal, being awarded the Brevet National de Pisteur Secouriste 1er degré, which translates as a highly regarded diploma in ski patrol.

Never letting the grass grow under my feet, shortly after I entered the physical aptitude tests to join the local voluntary fire brigade or pompiers. Called out to deal mainly with emergency medical rescue, the odd fire does come into the job description! It’s been a period of life full of many changes and personal achievements, but not without shedding sweat and tears. Often I gritted my teeth, even wept with frustration, especially when I found I wasn’t being taken seriously due to my nationality: “une anglaise qui ski!?” This was probably not helped by my previous diplomas in mountain rescue coming from Australia, all showing an icon with a kangaroo on skis (need I say no more?).

But I have always risen to a challenge and my next consists of distributing the calendrier des pompiers dressed in uniform. The road I have been allotted with a fellow female fireman is home to a large number of shepherds, at least I might get some good ewe’s cheese in 2008...

History and tradition Pau is situated in the Béarn, an area steeped in history and deeprooted traditions. Once the stronghold of the British in the 19th century, enticed here by the pure air reputed to heal illnesses such as tuberculosis, vestiges of their presence can still be glimpsed in the architecture of the city.

Pau Golf Club was founded by the Scots in 1856, maybe yearning for the pleasures of their homeland; it is the oldest golf club in continental Europe. Much time has passed since the first ball was putted; the clubhouse now opens its doors to over 650 members.

The surrounding area is still an undiscovered territory, with a tempting array of possibilities. Pau’s slogan, La Vie Rêvée des Villes, is easy to understand; you can ski in under an hour’s journey in numerous ski resorts and surf the waves along with the pros along the Landaise and Basque coastline in just over an hour. Not forgetting that the Spanish border lies within much the same time distance, along with the fiestas that go hand in hand with the warmblooded nation.

Those with a gourmet nature won’t be disappointed, with fine cuisine being offered in an extensive range of restaurants and vineyards on your doorstep. For wine-tasting, try Jurançon, an AOC-recognised, dry, crisp white or the rich, velvety tones of the sweet Moelleux variety. The red Madiran reflects the strong character of the people, a hearty wine, perfect with local dishes which often include richflavoured ewe’s cheese.

Winter wonderland The region is ideal for lovers of the outdoors, with a wide range of sports on offer, hence our move down to this part of France, fresh air and open spaces being part of the requisite.Winter sports range from skiing and snowboarding to snow shoeing and ski touring off the beaten track. Muscles can then be soothed with a soak in one of the local thermal baths. For example, in the Vallée d’Ossau, the two ski resorts Gourette and Artouste have thermal centres at Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux- Chaudes respectively.

It’s also quite a new phenomena for me, being someone who has worked and played in the Alps over many years, to encounter virtual non-existent lift queues and powder snow that hasn’t been tracked out within the first hour of the lifts opening. The aforementioned resorts both boast breathtaking scenery, Gourette’s slopes being cradled in a cirque and Artouste being dominated by the Pic de Midi d’Ossau. (Each day in winter, when I go to work in Gourette, I can’t help but wonder how my office could be more beautiful).

Both resorts provide great skiing for families, with Gourette having one of the highest scores in France for the beginner’s area. La Boule de Neige hotel at the bottom of the slopes is a favourite with the few Brits who have discovered the resort. Advanced skiers could easily fill a few days covering one or both resorts.With Ryanair’s direct flight from London Stansted to Pau, this is the recipe for a perfect long weekend, if not longer.

Pau also offers a variety of flights to other destinations, including Amsterdam and Brussels, as well as internal flights to Paris, and Lyon. Airports at Biarritz (one hour away) and Toulouse (two and a half hours) provide further possibilities.

Springing into action Spring sees the hiking trails open up, with their release from the grips of the winter freeze. If you’re lucky you might even catch a glimpse of the elusive brown bear, though they would do well to keep a low profile, shepherds and hunters not being their best pals! Other sports to stretch your muscles in the folds of the wild rugged beauty of the Pyrénées include rock climbing, canyoning, whitewater rafting and kayaking... any energy left?

Pau is proud to proclaim that the Olympic canoeing champion, Tony Estanguet, is bred from the gushing waters of their gave (meaning river originating in the Pyrénées). Those wishing for a gentler ride can hire a Pyrenean donkey or pony to take in the views of the never-ending panoramas.

In the neighbouring Aspe valley, a local creates products derived from the milk of mares, renowned for its youthpreserving properties. He began the process originally to protect the carthorse from being culled for the meat trade, after they became ‘unemployed’ due to their strength no longer being needed to pull the multitude of machinery used in the agricultural industry.

Keeping with the equine theme, Pau is famous for its national horse stud, built in 1808 and ranked number one in France. The hippodrome, on the outskirts of the city, had its first races in 1842, and last but definitely not least, their crosscountry course is one of the most prestigious on the international circuit.

Future potential For the long term, the area has incredible potential. It is still an undiscovered region, with an ever-growing infrastructure. Other destinations for air travel are planned for the years to come, along with a motorway connecting Bordeaux to Pau. These are partially secured by the strong concentration of international companies based in the area, such as Total, which needs no introduction, and Turbomeca, manufacturer of rotors for helicopters.

On the subject of helicopters, just next to Pau airport is the 5th Regiment of Combat Helicopters (RHC), along with the Special Forces (DAOS), so for anyone who loves to hear a rotor blade, a trip to the airport can give you your fix! I confess I fit into this category, constantly finding myself craning my neck.

Properties in the area range from grand town villas in Pau to large manor houses to the south, perched above the Jurançon vineyards with stunning views over the Pyrenées, or beautifully converted mills. There are also numerous barns crying out for the seeds of imagination to be planted within their stone walls.

Caroline Elliott specialises in prestige properties, working with Agence Iluro, part of Sotheby’s International Realty pyreneesprestige@gmail.com www.agence-iluro.fr

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