Travel - Island Living In France
Jeremy Sanders reports on the chic Ile de Ré, an island with stunning beaches and charming whitewashed houses just off the Atlantic coast...
Ile de Ré is a captivating island lying off the south west coast of France. Nestling between miles of white sandy beaches are the island’s traditional communities with their hollyhock strewn backstreets, quaint harbours and bustling medieval markets laden with local seafood, all dotted with exclusive boutiques and superb restaurants.
The island measures 19km by 6km and is criss-crossed by a labyrinth of cycle paths, making foot or bicycle the most enjoyable way to explore the unspoilt coastline and wide open spaces. The south-eastern tip is joined to the mainland by a spectacular 3km bridge which touches down in La Rochelle, the ancient maritime capital of the Charente-Maritime with its famous ‘vieux port’, boasting scores of beautiful shops, waterside cafes and eateries.
As one of France’s historic quarters, Ile de Ré is fiercely protected from development. Traditionally a playground for the well-heeled Parisian, in recent years the island has been rediscovered as a haven for stylish island living among a wider set. The island consists of 10 villages, which mainly occupy the coastal perimeters. Some sit among the oyster farms and salt marshes, which have supported the island for centuries.
Not surprisingly, in 2006 laws were introduced effectively ending new development and protecting the island forever. The property market is now buoyant and with only a finite number of houses available, the choice is becoming more limited and prices have already started to move.
The capital is St Martin, situated midway down the north coast. Built around its ancient battlements and historic harbour, the town has a cosmopolitan air and the many visitors throughout the year make it a popular location for a second home.
La Flotte en Ré is an historic fishing port and village, situated a little closer to the bridge. It is said to have the highest number of year-round residents and therefore has an attractive community feel.
Further into the island, things become more exclusive. St Clement-des-Baleines and Ars–en- Ré are two beautiful, unspoilt villages. At the tip of the island you arrive at Les Portes-en-Ré. Here you find the secluded homes of film stars and well-known figures. Johnny Depp, Vanessa Paradis and Princess Caroline of Monaco have all been spotted.
Property prices in the more popular locations of La Flotte and St Martin start at €300,000– €450,000 for a typical contemporary house with parking and garden. The older fishermen’s cottages in the centre with courtyard gardens are more expensive starting at €400,000–€750,000. If Les Portes-en-Ré takes your fancy and suits your wallet, then exclusive houses in the pine forests, close to the beach can cost in excess of €3,000,000.
Current properties available include a charming three-bedroom period village house in the centre of La Flotte, on the market at €610,000. The property is fully restored with stone fireplace, tiled floors and is just 100m from the beach, shops and restaurants. A three-bedroom contemporary house ready to move into, with garden and garage, plus the possibility of a swimming pool and extension is offered at €585,000.
Alternatively, what about a stunning period townhouse on the seafront and a stone’s throw from the harbour in La Flotte? This property is immaculate and boasts stunning views of the bay towards the mainland. Outside is a large covered courtyard suitable for boat storage or an open area. This kind of property is rare and is priced at €1,500,000.
Despite the restrictions, there are still some building plots available on the island which range from €260,000 for a good size 600m2 village centre plot, and up to €600,000 for a larger open plot with sea views.
In the capital of St Martin, the choice is varied. Firstly a 1960s seafront house in the Charente style; the wing-shaped design by a leading French architect ingeniously takes in every sea view. It is in need of some redecoration but represents a rare opportunity. In contrast, a three-storey period property on the harbour is suitable for conversion into a spectacular townhouse or two apartments with a restaurant on the ground floor. It is available for €1,378,000.
For those after something a little different, how about a Charentaise-style longhouse in La Couarde in a 5,000m2 stone-walled garden with two cottages, swimming pool, separate parking area, historic gated entrance and ‘vinaigrerie’ ruin, historically linked to the abbey in La Flotte. It’s on the market for €2,120,000.
Once people discover Ile de Ré they are destined to return and ‘the powers that be’ are well aware of this. The pricing of the bridge toll seems to impose an element of control on the numbers of people visiting, while island residents pass for free. Either way, the island is an intoxicating blend of old world charm and laidback chic. It is a unique place and descending from the bridge’s magnificent arc onto the island gives a real sense of adventure and a feeling that you are landing somewhere very special.
• Jeremy Sanders Tel: 01225 743922. www.iledereproperty.com